Stella McCartney breathed fresh air into the end of Fashion Week with her signature sense of gamine design, breaking away from the flouncy bohemian looks and sporty streetwear that dominated the spring runways.
Images: InDigital
Opening with form-fitting tube dresses that tucked in at the ankle, the designer began her parade of primary-tinted prints in oversized ginghams and weaving lines. This season brought back a refined version of her popular color-blocked pleated shift, this time with a sense of layered fluidity. Figure-hugging front sashes wrapped from the collars of boyish polo shirts, crossing over models’ torsos donned in matching knit or denim tube skirts. Double-breasted jackets and vests with elongated hems reaching beyond the hips paired with palazzo pants. As the finale approached, decidedly sultry mesh knit maxis—sure to become spring’s most coveted frocks—captured all eyes with their revealing geometric lace.
Shop: current season Stella McCartney
Hedi Slimane has been injecting the famed French fashion house that is now simply Saint Laurent with a distinctly dark yet refined punk vibe since his first days as creative director. This fashion veteran continued to push forward into spring with his signature style, which is right at home in Paris.
Since Slimane took the reins at Saint Laurent, the shift in tone from classic French chic to enviable rock-and-roll androgyny—keep in mind the man used to dress Bowie—is starkly obvious. Slinky dresses stood out from one another based on their outerwear pairings, which ranged from borrowed-from-your-boyfriend denim to leather and cargo jackets to a version of Le Smoking blazer to a full-shag coat. The man has taken the coveted Parisian casual-chic look to the runway season after season, yet his white tank paired with jeans and staple trench never cease to hit the mark. Impeccable tailoring and a mix of textiles broke up the sea of minis, with floor-length strappy maxis finishing the show. The collection exuded all the commercial and cool appeal that Slimane has so masterfully harnessed.
Shop: current season Saint Laurent
—Emma Ranniger