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After Raf Simons’s three-year stylistic overhaul at Christian Dior, the lovable designer split ties last October, leaving the latest collection in the hands of the brand’s studio team.
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Images: InDigital
The proxy creative design position was led by studio heads Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux, who did a solid job envisioning a transitional collection that blended Dior’s historic silhouettes with Simons’s controlled sense of experimentation. There was a focus on tailored outerwear and clean lines, specifically the brand’s historical “New Look” silhouette, with cinched waists and flared skirts. Color and flourish were styled after Simons’s design mantra with flouncy, ruffled tops and embellished A-line skirts or ballooning sleeves; contrast cuffs teamed up with slim pencil skirts for a play on proportion. Execution aside, the same styles reappeared, reminding us of the collection’s placeholder status.
Jonathan Anderson is one of the industry’s most feted young designers, heading his own line and that of Spain’s luxury house Loewe with unseen originality.
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Presenting a more mature collection compared to last season’s, cellophane trousers, second-skin tops and handkerchief skirts took center stage—along with those playful 3D chat visage necklaces. Extreme sweetheart leather bodices, gauzy wraps, and threaded bauble belts and necklaces shaped the otherwise loose and unstructured cotton shirtdresses. Arguably, the saddle-brown leather trench with matching trousers and dual purse action was the standout, with its clean contrast seams and the avant-garde edge Anderson has been continually injecting into the line.
SHOP: current-season Loewe
The Issey Miyake brand has long been built upon alternative philosophies and their material counterparts, taken to the next level this fall by Yoshiyuki Miyamae’s use of trippy prints.Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.Neon kaleidoscopic lines on long flowing frocks and curved shoulder jackets opened the show, followed by dual-tone structural ribbed fabrics molded into oversized trousers, an engulfing curved coat, a boxy tee and a high-side-slit skirt with a singular hip ruffle. The optical illusions continued on mesmerizing numbers that worked micro check pleats into 3D whorls on skirts and frocks. Spiral-pleated fabrics closed out the dizzying show, returning to super structured looks with corseted waists and rounded shoulders, hips and hemlines for truly futuristic silhouettes.
—Emma Ranniger
